Hey everyone matt pincus (@mpincus87 ) here with day 5 of my @frictionlabs instagram takeover. i’ll be signing off after this one, but thanks for tuning in!
all week i’ve been sharing photos from the climbing areas that make up the backbone my yearly circuit of travels. while it’s great going back to the climbing areas that start to feel like home, part of the spirit of climbing is getting out there, exploring, seeing new areas, and learning about different parts of the world. these photos are from areas i may not go to every year, but are still important to me and my climbing. whether you travel by 🛩🚆or 🚘 get out there and go somewhere you’ve never been!
📷: 1. @dhjones half way through warpath v14 in castle rock, idaho.
2. @jon_cardwell on his project joe mama 5.15a at oliana in catalunya, spain.
3. @mpincus87 sending the practitioner v11 in leavenworth, washington.
4. @mpincus87 on la baleine v7, fontainebleau, france 🇫🇷.
5. @mpincus87 on kung fury v10, joes valley, utah. photo: @eddiemorillas
@mpincus87 back again with day 4 of my @frictionlabs instagram takeover! while i travel a lot, home is definitely wyoming. so today, we’re heading to lander.
when people think of lander, they think of tweaky pockets, monos on 5.10s 🖕, cowboys, wind 💨, and rattlesnakes 🐍 . all these things are true. however, there’s also bullet rock, a huge diversity of crags/boulders, and an average of 320 climbable days a year. what are you waiting for?
1. @eddiemorillas gritting his teeth on ghost moon 5.13d.
2. @mpincus87 on wolf point’s remus 5.13b. photo: @brox_rocks | @theonsightcollective
3. @daltbunker showing how to try h*****n heart full of ghost 5.14a.
4. @bjtilden running a lap on genetic drifter 5.14c.
5. @mpincus87 taking down get high and fly v10.
6. @dustygene sending the philanderer v9.
Here we go! matt pincus here with day 3 of my @frictionlabs takeover. today we’re changing it up and leaving the sport crag for some bouldering. for me, that means one place and one place only - hueco tanks!
hueco is my favorite place to boulder on the planet. the rock, the shapes, the insane concentration of classic climbs, the desert hang, the mexican food - i love it all. you’ll find me there every winter staying at the @sendclimbing gleatherland ranch, taking out tours, and trying h*****n whatever boulder is my latest obsession.
1. @marina_inaway locking down the crimps of shroom v9.
2. yours truly sending loaded direct v11. (photo: @edwinteran )
3. @said_belhaj making quick work of full service v10.
4. @highlonesomee_ on her send of baby face v7.
5. an all time crew enjoying a relaxin morning at pond parking. our debut album is dropping soon...
Morning every one! matt pincus (@mpincus87 ) here with day 2 of my @frictionlabs takeover sharing photos from my some of my favorite crags. next up, the vrg!
the vrg, located on the side of i-15 between st. george and las vegas, isn’t the most “pleasant” place to climb. the road noise is constant 🚚🚚🚚. the routes are big, imposing, and runout. communication with your belayer is difficult to impossible. however, the rock is also some of the best limestone in the us featuring historic routes established by @boonespeed and @randyleavitt. succeeding at the vrg demands just a little bit extra, but doing a hard route here will make you a better climber. add all this up and you get a crag with a dedicated following ready to put the work in year after year. i already can’t wait for this season...
1: @bookofsamuel sending necessary evil 5.14c
2. @danmirsky heading to the chains on planet earth 5.14a
3. @robwjensen fighting hard for his send of don’t call me dude 5.13c
Hey everyone and happy fall 🍂! matt pincus (@mpincus87 ) here with day 1 of my @frictionlabs takeover. as the head coach and content manager of @trainingbeta, i’m lucky enough to spend most of my year on the road chasing good conditions and climbing as much as possible. this week i’m going to be sharing some of my photos with all if you to highlight a few of the climbing areas that are important to me and always end up on my yearly circuit. first up, rifle, colorado.
rifle is many things. it’s steep, blocky limestone, long routes, slippery feet, historic climbs, and one of the highest concentrations of hard sport climbs in america. most importantly though, climbing in rifle is just fun. time in the canyon is like adult summer camp - good friends, lots a motivation, and post climbing 🍻. it’s pretty hard to beat...
1. nick smith on thieves 5.13b
2. dru mack (@drumack5 ) giving 110% on zulu 5.14a
3. marina inoue (@marina_inaway ) swinging around on tomb raider 5.13d
Happy friday guys! ann raber @sendann for the final day of my @frictionlabs instaslamvasion! thank you so much for having me in your feed and to frictionlabs for supporting my climbing efforts season after season.
for a project-oriented boulderer like myself, using the very best products for my hands is critical to getting things done. i am always trying lines that are way too hard for me and i try them for way too many hours at once, too many days in a row. since i started using exclusively frictionlabs chalk and affiliated skincare products from @climbskinspain , i’ve seen a huge difference in the durability of my skin. stronger skin means more go’s on the project, and every project is a war of attrition for me so i need every go ;-). in 2014 i started spending 6 months of the year living in southern california. it has had a huge impact on my climbing to live here and climb on the incredible granite and sandstone. i was forced to learn new techniques and adapt my style in very uncomfortable ways, and it was pretty slow going the first few seasons. this place has made me better, and my performance when i travel has improved like crazy each year, even if i never send anything at home 😂 🤷♀️ pictured are shots from the brickyard in santa barbara, tuolumne meadows, and joshua tree. shots are by @rtylerphoto and @carvingsymmetry ❤️😘 #chalkupless#climbmore 🙏#frictionlabs
Hello y’all, it’s me @sendann for day 4 of 5 (not fired yet!!) of my @frictionlabs instaslam! the cornerstone of my climbing for the last ten years has been my winter residence in hueco tanks. whatever is going on the rest of the year, wherever i am living or whatever i’m climbing, coming here each november and digging into the season with my friends is where i am the most at home. that might not be true forever, but i am counting down the weeks until i get back there this year.
here is a small selection of some beautiful climbs that i’m proud to have done over the years.
each year i guide tons of climbers around the backcountry, and it’s one of my greatest pleasures to show people around my favorite place. i guide through @wagonwheelcoopt and am always stoked to get folks out. if you’re planning a trip and need help getting tours sorted out, don’t hesitate to be in touch via my dm.
for the last 9 years, @merrickales and i have met up to take pictures on whatever i was trying h*****n that season. these are just a few, except for the one in the red jacket on crimps, that was taken by shaddow. i’m so thankful to have this beautiful archive of my life in a tank. #chalkupless#climbmore 🙏#frictionlabs
Kia ora! @sendann at it again with day 3 of 5 posting for @frictionlabs 💎💎💎
it’s been fun to look back at these places and photos, especially during this period of the year that we call the ‘days of awe’ in jewish tradition. the new year has two holidays separated by ten days, and during that time you reflect and reconsider your life in big and small ways. i feel flooded with gratitude for the the places climbing has taken me in my life so far, and very motivated for whatever is next.
today, new zealand! i met my bff @chrriv in magic wood, and she did just what i warned you about yesterday and invited me to climb and stay with her in castle hill, new zealand. six months later i was at her door with a van and a tarif free crash pad in tow for her. i’ve returned twice now, and this wild hillside boulder field has me mesmerized. i always hesitate to recommend nz as a climbing trip destination, because if you’re hoping to “take something home” like a big number or famous line, well, the odds are stacked with conditions. but if you are content to wander around trying hard and pressing it out at the place that the actual dalai lama called the energetic center of the universe, consider a visit.
living in nz, @chrriv is an inspired photographer, and took all these shots #chalkupless#climbmore 🙏#frictionlabs
Hey again! it’s @sendann here with day 2 of 5 of a @frictionlabs instagram invasion.
if we ever meet in person, don’t casually invite me to visit your amazing hometown crag unless you are ready for me to accept because i probably will 😂! every trip i take leads to the next. i make a new friend, or hear about someplace new or interesting, and the seed is planted, and once i start cooking up an idea, things start happening.
i left austin in 2010 and spent the next....well still at it i guess, traveling all over north america and the world climbing wherever i could based on this premise. i sport climbed a bit, but as a solo mission i always gravitated to bouldering on hard, small things that i could dig into without having to rely on other people’s motivation. here are some of my favorite places and pics:
taking the plunge in mallorca
riverbed life in linville gorge, nc
gnashing my knuckles on the grit in the peaks district, uk
finishing fragile steps in rocklands
pics by andrew christensen, mike stam, and moses potter
thank you and happy new year if you’re celebrating ;)!
Hey y’all! ann raber @sendann here with day 1 of 5 of a @frictionlabs instagram invasion. i’m so thankful for this opportunity to share photos of problems and places that are milestones in my climbing. i discovered rocks at 26 in 2006 in austin, texas, which i still consider to be the energetic center of the rock climbing universe🤘. so i’ll start there.
pictured here is: talking to jesus, on lake travis. it was established as a 40‘+/- dws during an epic drought in 2009. rain came the next year and covered it completely. as the lake began to drop again, i decided that i would learn the line from the top down, adding moves as the water dropped. every week i returned (um, i mean @cl8tor generously hauled my sad a*s out there so i could flail thank you btw) to add the moves as they emerged. the climb got taller, the falls onto the flat, fresh lake water got more painful, but the extra space underneath opened up more beta. when i sent it topped out 16’ +/- off the water, less than half of the bold original. since it was so much more casual, i dubbed the lowball version talking to chuy. and you know, chuy taught me a lot.
the next shot ➡️ is 👀evil eyes👀, at mckinney falls. you won’t believe me if i try to explain this thing. but if you have climbed at mckinney then you know how messed up and radical this little climb is. i don’t think i had ever truly dropped my knee before, and i’d certainly never spraggled monos. 🖖✋👆👇🙏. have you done evil eyes? isn’t it...yeah. help me describe it, but don’t hurt yourself!