Looking up at the crux of
seventh serpent. @tradprincess 📸 @mersendyclimberson
there may not be a lot of routes nearby but the seventh serpent is one of the classics of long canyon and worth the hike for one pitch. the route starts in a right facing corner with a short section of offwidth followed by hands and thin hands. about 25' up the corner ends and the c***k wanders up the wall trending left through a few large pods. the climbing is varied with numerous rests, face holds and some short sections of splitter crack. be cautious when getting to the anchor, some of the rock is soft and loose but not hard to climb around.
there is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range. looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs. probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor. will update this information next time i go up to try it.
this route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.
park on the right at a tight left hand switchback just before the maverick buttress. there is a faint trail leading up the right side of the wash that will get you through some cliff bands. once on top head way left and just keep an eye out for the obvious crack. approach by walking along the flat upper shelf; don't head up to the crag until you are beneath the climb
(6).75 & #1, (4)#2, (1)#3 & #4(old 4 is better) camalots. anchor has webbing but it should be replaced with some chain. i'll change it out next time i go up there unless someone else does it first.